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Pakistan - "Dream Road": Karakorum Highway Karakorum Highway, it's a paved route that connects Northern Pakistan and China going through a mountain pass at 4730m, where the two countries are divided. The highway, stretching over the full length of 1300km, weaves its way through rugged mountain ranges such as the Himalayas, Hindu Kush and Karakorum, looking over a number of massive glaciers and mountain peaks 7000m or higher. Along the highway are many villages whose people differ ethnically from one valley to the next. This "dream road" satisfies all your curiosity. One can never ask for more. Soon after I entered Pakistan, I got knocked down by so-called 'Pakistan stomach'; severe bacterial diarrhea accompanied by a high fever. Being so close to my "dream road", I was forced to stay still for a week. The monsoon season was approaching rapidly from the south. As a result, I ended up taking a train to save time enough to travel along the highway before the monsoon hit the area. On September 10, very much later than expected, I finally started riding on Karakorum Highway from Islamabad. Once in the mountains, I advanced slowly, stopping over at every interesting spot. The highway never disappointed my expectations. Meeting calm and friendly locals and observing unique cultures excited me so much. The variety of magnificent scenery was almost overwhelming. The contrast between unbelievably blue sky and colorful fruits was pleasant. One day I went trekking and climbed up high enough to see the clouds under my feet. The scenery there was so majestic that I felt sublime. Camping near a glacier, I heard the cracking sound of ice break the deep silence. The month of October in Hunza turned poplar leaves yellow, ones on apricot trees red. All the fruits had been harvested, and only potatoes were left on the field. Each time covered with clouds, mountains were deepening their whiteness. Here, in Hunza I had a dramatic encounter with Mr. Machii(Yoshi), another Japanese bike-rider traveling around the world, whom I had not seen for 20 months since we met in Morocco. It was on October 27 that I crossed Khunjerab Pass marking the national border between Pakistan and China. I was the only person in sight at the snow-covered 5000-meter pass. When the wind stopped blowing, I experienced a sense of fear, like being oppressed by extreme stillness. >>> My Two Worst Problems in Pakistan
From Tibet(China) to Nepal - Traveling through the Himalayas from Tibetan Plateau, the "Roof of the World" I was planning to travel from Kaxgar (or Kashi), Mt. Kailas, to Nepal. Mt. Kailas is the most sacred pilgrimage site for three different religions, including Tibetan Buddhism. It's located in such a remote area, where in winter the snow keeps any human away. After careful examination of the conditions, I made a bitter decision not to visit there this time for my own safety. Thus, Mt. Kailas remains as my dream-place. My alternative plan was then to fly to Lhasa, the capital of the Tibet Administrative Division of China, and to ride a bike toward Nepal from there. Still, Lhasa was far even by air. Not only was shipping my bike and luggage (weighing over 60kg) problematic, but also a varied and bizzare collection of regulations made it very difficult for me to enter Tibet. The most impressive spot in the sacred city of Lhasa, situated as high as Mt. Fuji(3,776m), was Jokhang Temple. If you were a Tibetan, you would want to pilgrimage there at least once in your life regardless of the distance. At the temple, pilgrims repeatedly prostrate themselves with their whole bodies lying on the ground in front of Buddha. Some pray with their knees tied together. You may picture pilgrimage as something very tough and painful. But I was actually surprised to see how happy they seemed. I attended chanting rituals practiced every night at the temple. One day the chant sounded like a spell, another day it was like a song. It was very interesting to see the variety in chanting ways. But what amazed me more was the fact that young monks promptly stood up and hurried home as soon as the chanting was over. As leaving the temple, some were being playful with their friends, and others were laughing loudly. The atmosphere was not restrained at all! During my stay in Lhasa I suffered from having constant bloody urine and severe diarrhea. My bladder was infected. It was probably because I had often held urine for a long time during many cold nights in my tent, and because I was losing physical resistance from accumulated fatigue. Blood in my urine didn't disappear over a week even though I kept taking antibiotics. I was starting to think of leaving for either Shanghai or Bangkok to see a decent doctor. The road connecting China and Nepal is called "Friendship Highway". It ruggedly runs through the Himalayas from north to south, crossing three over 5,000-meter passes. Most part of the road (approximately 1,000km) is unpaved and just wide enough for one car to go through. Moreover, a landslide or avalanche can hit the road at any time. Heading toward the Himalayas, every afternoon I had to ride against the head wind. The sand-laden wind slowed me down. Occasional sandstorms brought sand well into my mask. Once in the Himalayas, the whole place was covered with snow. I pedaled between ice walls towering 10-meter high into the sky. The weather was beautiful most days, and the cobalt blue sky was bright in my eyes. Tibet in winter was painted solely with three colors: brown on the ground, white of the snow, and blue in the sky. Toward the very last pass, I kept pedaling, to be more precise kept pushing the bike, gazing at Himalayan peaks and the road climbing up into the white landscape. I was having an illusion that as I kept walking I was going up to heaven. I was enjoying the most rousing feeling I ever had. "I can actually do it! It really does happen!" said to myself, thinking back all the preparation and effort which brought me there. Everything started to seem so precious. I felt I was not at all alone although I actually was only one there. After crossing the pass as high as 5,100m, the road drastically began to lose its altitude of 1,500m within 100km in distance toward the national boundary. Suddenly the air became heavy. The color green was added onto the scenery. I started to remember that there were many colors, sounds and smells on the earth. It has been over 6 weeks that I was on Tibetan Plateau. On January 14, the day after I crossed the border I arrived in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. When I was in Tibet, I was always thinking about what I wanted to have or what I wanted to do in Kathmandu. Funny enough, once I was in the situation where I could actually obtain anything I wanted, I began to miss the situation where I wasn't materialistically satisfied. But my appetite soon convinced me to realize the greatness of being in a city. I started craving for Japanese food, cakes and pizza. Despite my traveling along sacred areas, I was still quite simple and vulgar after all.... >>> My Three Biggest Discouragements in Tibet
Each time I hear news on the Japanese recession, I come to realize that I can never be too appreciative of the opportunity given to me. During the trip, I'd like to take advantage of every single meeting with people, win as many chances as possible, and further develop my potential. My trip of "cycling around the world" planned for four years and three months has already entered its second half. I am delighted to report that I could pedal through both Karakorum Highway and Friendship Highway, of which I had been dreaming for a long time. There have always been some minor troubles over the trip, but fortunately I have never had any major accidents or misfortunes so far. Thanks to continuous encouragement and support from all over the world, and also kindness from the people I have met on the way, I have been able to keep traveling safely and with vitality. Thank you very much. "My world trip" will continue toward Southeast Asia, then to North and South Americas until December 1999 when I complete my entire trip. If you have time, please drop me a note. I shall write to you again from somewhere in the world. Tatsu Sakamoto February 5, 1998 Kathmandu, Nepal Currently in the 31st country Total distance pedaled: approx. 33,000km |
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